It’s already been two months since we came back from our bikepacking trip. It’s one thing to take a holiday and then catch up with all the stuff you missed when you were away, but actually having the time to sit down for a bit and write about it is something different. Let alone make a video with the thousand video clips you came home with (a work in progress - respect to YouTubers everywhere!).

If you haven’t read the rest of this little blog series, this paragraph will bring you up to speed. If you already know the story, then please skip on.

My friend Clint and I decided that we needed a little challenge after last year’s Coast to Coast RatRace. We already had the gravel bikes and some bike packing bags from that, and although we weren’t doing a charity event this year, it would be good to get out and do something new/out of our comfort zone. We decided on bikepacking and were looking to go somewhere different. We came up with Cape Wrath, the most north-westerly tip of the UK, as the destination. It’s cyclable and a bit less travelled than the more popular John O’Groats over on the eastern tip. 

We’d leave from home on the bikes and use public transport. I wanted to feel like we could leave home and start our adventure without needing a car. And with Scotland being Scotland, we chose August as the month, hoping for sunshine over the midge (spoiler - we got half our wish...).

When I finish the video, I’ll link it here.

Why Cape Wrath?

Again, I’ve gone over why we chose Cape Wrath, but I felt a desire to cycle to the end of the map. Just to look at it and see a little spot and know I’d been there. It’s a place really accessible only by boat, so even in today’s heavily travel-blogged world, it remains quite remote and untouched.

We left Glasgow via train to Inverness and then cycled to Cape Wrath over three days. To get the full route details, please read the last blog:

https://www.readysweatgo.co.uk/blogs/news/first-bike-packing-trip-two-mamils-two-bikes-one-adventure

And if you want the FULL LOWDOWN on all the bikepacking gear I used, then check the previous post on that here:

https://www.readysweatgo.co.uk/blogs/news/bikepacking-what-i-m-taking-what-i-m-leaving-and-what-i-m-still-to-figure-out

Bike Packing - What is it like?

Absolutely brilliant. Not all the time, that’s for sure, and I’ll get to those bits, but in the main, there is something deeply satisfying about setting off for the day, every day, with everything you need packed on your bike, a destination in mind and setting off with a straightforward goal of getting to your destination and not much else. I think it would be equally as good without a destination, but that’s for another time.

The Highlights

On a trip like this (did you know some people do this all the time? It’s hard to imagine, but true), you’ll hopefully create memories that will never leave you. This trip gave us many, too many to bang on about here, but my top four are these:-

Crask Moor

After cycling what seemed like a short eternity, beside the largest, emptiest and most untouched piece of sprawling Moore, I got to thinking, what is this place? At the end, there was a sign explaining that Crask Moore holds as much carbon as all the UK’s forests combined. It has purple heather and little Toblerone-style hills dotted around, making you feel very, very small. I’ve often thought of the UK as a small place when compared to larger places around the world. But even on our little island, places like this show you just how small you are. 

Tongue Causeway

Not much to say here, it was just the view, the sunset was happening, a few clouds hung all the way around the mountain tops. It was a clear evening, the sun was bouncing off the water, and the hills were all around. It was just a reward for the days of cycling.

Cape Wrath

The last morning’s cycle was tough, the climbs were relentless, and the weather had turned a bit dank and damp. Upon arriving at the Cape, via a small ferry boat, you’re greeted with a steep climb. It was too steep to cycle, so up we go, pushing the bikes. Thankfully, we’d left the heavy gear at our Durness campground. We get to the top, and the view is breathtaking. An inlet called the Kyle of Durness sits below, with turquoise water and white sands. A family of seals sunbathes across the beach, without a care in the world. It felt like it was one of the few places left where this could actually happen; it was incredible.

The Old Military Road

We’d been told the military road would be hard. I guess a hundred-year-old road across a rugged landscape is bound to be on a bike. And it was really hard, probably the toughest section of the trip. On the way back, we met an English mountain biker who was impressed that we managed it on our gravel bikes, especially since we had cycled from Tongue the same morning. In retrospect, having already done 30-odd miles in a dash with fully laden bikes and a fair few climbs, it might have been a bit ambitious. 

Our legs were less than fresh, and the old road was brutal. It was the slowest average speed I can remember cycling - about 8mph on the way to the lighthouse - in case you’re interested. BUT, it was worth it. It’s so remote and untouched that you feel like the only people to have cycled across it. I’m sure at other times it will be busy, but not this time. The weather was hot, the road was long, and the lighthouse was far, far away. But in the end, you make it, and it’s great. There is always something amazing about imagining something like this in your mind, then making it happen. That’s where life lives for me. But of course, then you need to cycle back, and as is often the case, it feels less challenging on the way back. Then you’re done. Enjoy the ferry, the burgers, and it’s time to go home.

What Worked (And What Didn’t)

Well, it can’t all be white beaches and tartan-clad unicorns. In a trip like this, there are always things that could go better. Here are some of ours:-

The Midge

Yes. The Scottish midge, I’ve written about it before. But, in truth, in Glasgow at least, they’re not much of a big deal. Move outside the city, though (let alone in the middle of nowhere), and you’ll find yourself in a tent at 6am, with your fly sheet closed AND your midge headnet on, wondering why you’ve bothered! Yes, they are that bad. But during the day out on the bike, they weren’t that noticeable unless you stopped for a while longer to eat or drink. Just one to be prepared for when bikepacking around Scotland.

Packing For Bikepacking (and packing again)

Having everything you need for your adventure is great. But understanding where everything needs to go, how much to carry, and what you don’t need is another thing. Entirely. 

On the second night, the campsite was quite remote and really exposed. The wind got up, and the damp/har came down. In my packable sleeping bag and with everything warm I had with me, I was just warm enough. It is Scotland and things can change fast.

Not only this, but packing every day took some time. Repacking your tent and putting away all your gear where it needs to go, not just where there is space, is key. Your waterproof and warm gear needs to be accessible, spare gloves and snacks, all have to be on hand for when you need them. On top of that, when you get to your destination, you want to be able to get your camp set up quickly and efficiently - especially if the weather or dark are closing in.

All in all, however, I was happy with my kit choices and look forward to using it all again. Talking of gear, we were trying out the full Veloforte range of sports nutrition, and it was perfect for this kind of thing. The bars, gels and chews are all truly delicious. They provide that boost you’re looking for, while actually being a bit of a treat to consume, not a chore. 

Again you can read all about my chosen bikepacking kit here: https://www.readysweatgo.co.uk/blogs/news/bikepacking-what-i-m-taking-what-i-m-leaving-and-what-i-m-still-to-figure-out

Insta 360 Camera

These get great reviews and I’ve used mine loads over the past two years. I’ve used it multiple times on this trip, as after much deliberation, I realised (this time..) I couldn’t pack my drone, but for the most part, it was fine.

My main gripe is that although the battery life and usability are good enough, the lens guards often fog up. Clearing them means having to unscrew, find a clean lens cloth, clean them in and out, and screw them back on without touching them. When off the bike, you can safely take them off, and it provides great 4K and 8K footage, but on the bike, when you want to protect the lenses (a lot of stones flying up from bike wheels or gravel), it’s tough to know if your footage is going to be usable. 

It’s probably fine in warmer climates, but here in Scotland, it’s a tough one to get right - especially when on the move.

The Route

This isn’t really a big bugbear. I guess you can always get it better. The first day was quite busy with traffic, relatively speaking. 

Inverness is quieter compared to Glasgow or Edinburgh, for example. For bike packing or touring, you want a pleasant, peaceful journey, or maybe that’s just me. Once we got out further, however, it quietened down, and soon we were treated to some of the quietest roads the UK has to offer. They were in great condition too. 

Would I Do It Again?

You will already know the answer to this one. Yes, I definitely will go bikepacking again. It’s a great mental reset for me. Being out literally in the middle of nowhere in a vast space reminds you of what’s important to you and how little you need (in material terms). And cycling that far, and overcoming the various challenges that will crop up, reminds you of what you’re capable of.

Next time, I think I’d like to go a little longer, maybe four or five days cycling, as I’d like more time to take in the scenery. I’d have liked to be able to stop more and take more photos and videos. 

For the next adventure, another trip to Scotland could be good, or maybe somewhere in Europe. Or a complete change and try running an ultramarathon. I’ve done long cycles and the coast-to-coast last year involving running and cycling, but I’ve never done more than marathon distance, so maybe that could be something to try! 

If anyone has any suggestions, I’m all ears!

Watch the journey unfold

If you’re thinking about doing a bikepacking trip in Scotland, this gives you a real-world look at what it’s like — from the saddle, through the midge, to the edge of the UK. When it’s ready I’ll post it here!